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A Connecticut Christmas Train Ride On The "North Pole Express"

Published: October 24, 2025

By: Adam Burns

The Essex Steam Train & Riverboat is one of New England’s most beloved heritage attractions, blending living railroad history with sweeping Connecticut River scenery and family-friendly storytelling.

Operated by the Valley Railroad Company since the early 1970s, it carries passengers along a historic right-of-way first laid in the 19th century, then pairs the rails with a classic river cruise aboard the Becky Thatcher.

While spring through fall bring daily excursions and seasonal special events, it’s the North Pole Express—its signature holiday journey—that has become a treasured tradition for thousands of families across the Northeast.

About the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat

Based in the quaint village of Essex, Connecticut, the operation centers on a meticulously preserved station and yard filled with vintage coaches and locomotives. The regular-season experience often includes a steam train ride north through marshes, coves, and forested riverbanks, with views that change from salt marsh near the Sound to steep, wooded bluffs upriver. At Deep River Landing, many excursions connect to the Becky Thatcher, a classic riverboat named after Mark Twain’s character. Onboard, you’ll cruise past osprey platforms and eagle perches, glide by Selden Island, and take in views of local landmarks such as Gillette Castle perched high above the river and the East Haddam swing bridge near the Goodspeed Opera House. The combined train-and-boat journey typically runs about two and a half hours and showcases why this stretch of the Connecticut River is designated a National Scenic Riverway.

Steam power is part of the magic here. While equipment can vary by date, the railroad is known for operating authentic steam locomotives and vintage coaches that capture the sound, smell, and motion of early 20th-century railroading. The staff and volunteers bring deep knowledge and enthusiasm, and the grounds themselves—complete with a depot, gift shop, and photo-worthy platforms—immerse you in rail heritage before you even step aboard.

What is the North Pole Express?
Every November and December, Essex transforms into a winter wonderland for the North Pole Express, a nighttime, train-only holiday event that sells out quickly each year. This is not just a ride; it’s a fully staged experience designed for families with children, as well as anyone who loves the warmth of holiday tradition. Coaches are festooned with lights and garlands, the station glows with seasonal décor, and a cast of costumed performers brings the spirit of the season to life.

The North Pole Express typically runs about 75–90 minutes roundtrip. Instead of connecting to the riverboat, you’ll remain aboard the decorated train, traveling through the darkened Connecticut River Valley where twinkling scenes and onboard storytelling take center stage. The route on these trains is generally similar to the regular-season rail line out of Essex Station, but the focus is on the onboard program rather than sightseeing.

What to Expect Onboard
From the moment you arrive, you’ll meet friendly “elves” and car hosts who set the tone with music, banter, and interactive games. Once aboard, expect a program that usually includes:

- Hot cocoa and cookies served at your seat. In some seating classes, cocoa may be served in a keepsake mug; in others, it may be a disposable cup. Details can vary by year and class of service.
- Caroling and sing-alongs led by the crew, with classic holiday tunes that encourage full-car participation.
- A reading or retelling of a holiday story and festive skits that entertain kids while the train rolls through the night.
- A special visit from Santa and often Mrs. Claus, who make their way through the train greeting children. Each child typically receives a small keepsake or gift.

Pajamas are encouraged for kids (and the young-at-heart), and many families turn their trip into a photo-worthy tradition. The train cars are warm and cozy, with low lighting to keep the atmosphere magical.

Tickets, Seating, and Classes of Service
The North Pole Express is extremely popular, with tickets commonly released in early fall and selling out quickly. Sales are handled online through the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat website, and initial on-sale days can be very busy. Because policies and pricing can change year to year, always check the official site for:

- Exact on-sale dates and times
- Pricing by date, time, and seating class
- Whether infants need their own tickets
- Exchange, transfer, and refund policies

Assigned seating is the norm. Essex typically offers multiple classes of service:

- Coach: Traditional, forward-facing seats with cocoa and cookies and the full entertainment program.
- First Class: Often features table seating and additional amenities, which may include upgraded treats, a keepsake mug, or other perks.

Because details vary, review the current season’s descriptions carefully before buying. If you have a larger group, book together so you’re seated in the same area. If you need accessible seating or specific accommodations, contact the railroad ahead of time; Essex has accessible boarding options and can advise on availability for particular departures.

Tips for a Smooth, Memorable Trip
- Book early. Mark your calendar for the ticket release date and be ready right at on-sale time. Many peak dates and prime times sell out quickly.
- Arrive early. Plan to be on site 30–45 minutes before departure. This gives you time to park, check in, browse the gift shop, and enjoy the festive platform atmosphere.
- Dress in layers. Cars are heated, but New England nights can be chilly. Pajamas plus a warm outer layer work well for kids.
- Strollers and gear. Policies can change; in many cases, strollers are not permitted onboard. Bring only what you can manage in your seat and confirm current guidance on the website.
- Photos. You’ll find numerous photo opportunities along the platform and onboard. Keep devices charged and ready, but stay present so you can enjoy the live performance.
- Food and allergies. Cocoa and cookies are part of the tradition. If you have dietary concerns, check with the railroad in advance and consider bringing an alternative treat if allowed.
- Parking and traffic. The station has parking, but holiday crowds are common. Build in buffer time.

How the North Pole Express Differs From the Regular Season
The regular Essex Steam Train & Riverboat experience is all about daylight scenery—gleaming marshes, soaring eagles, and a breezy river cruise aboard the Becky Thatcher. You’ll transfer from the train to the boat at Deep River Landing and enjoy views of landmarks like Gillette Castle and the Goodspeed Opera House from the water before rejoining the train back to Essex.

By contrast, the North Pole Express runs after dark and remains train-only. The holiday storytelling, music, and character interactions are the focus, and while you’ll still be traveling the historic line, the windows become part of the stage set rather than the main attraction. If you love nature and photography, plan a daytime train-and-boat visit earlier in the year; if you’re all about festive family memories, the North Pole Express is the ticket.

Make a Day of It in Essex
Essex, CT, is a postcard-perfect New England village with tree-lined streets, boutiques, and eateries that pair nicely with a pre- or post-ride stroll. Many visitors combine their train trip with dinner in town or a stop at nearby attractions in the Lower Connecticut River Valley. During the holidays, local shops often extend hours and add seasonal décor, making it easy to turn your train ride into a full evening out.

Why It Endures
The Essex Steam Train & Riverboat succeeds because it’s authentic, immersive, and grounded in community. Riding in a vintage coach behind a historic locomotive is inherently special; layering on thoughtful hospitality and well-rehearsed entertainment turns a simple excursion into a tradition families keep for years. For many, the North Pole Express marks the beginning of the holiday season—hot cocoa warming your hands, carols lifting from every seat, and the wide-eyed moment when Santa steps into the car. It’s nostalgic without being dated, and polished without losing its homespun charm.

Before You Go
Because schedules, policies, and offerings change, confirm the latest details on the Essex Steam Train & Riverboat website. Look for current operating dates, the on-sale timeline for the North Pole Express, accessibility information, seating charts, and FAQs. With a little planning—especially booking early—you’ll be set for a seamless experience and a keepsake memory that feels straight out of a storybook, brought to life by real rails, real river breeze (in season), and real holiday cheer.