Published: September 4, 2025
By: Adam Burns
When autumn sweeps across Montana, the state’s vast forests and river bottoms ignite with color. This isn’t New England’s blaze of maples; Montana’s show is defined by quaking aspens fluttering bright lemon, towering cottonwoods glowing along the water, and—most distinctively—western larch (often called tamarack), the rare conifer that turns burnished gold before dropping its needles. Seeing it all from a train adds a comforting rhythm and a wide-angle vantage you simply can’t get by car. Here’s how to plan memorable fall foliage train rides in Big Sky Country.
Ride the Empire Builder through Glacier Country
Amtrak’s Empire Builder crosses the state east–west, linking Wisconsin and Minnesota with the Pacific Northwest. In Montana, it threads two especially scenic regions for fall color:
- Whitefish – West Glacier – Essex – East Glacier Park (Marias Pass): This is the crown jewel for autumn rail travel in Montana. The line skirts the Middle Fork of the Flathead River and climbs toward Marias Pass on the southern edge of Glacier National Park. In early to mid-October, mountainsides of western larch light up gold among dark fir and spruce, while aspens shimmer in creek bottoms. The train’s Sightseer Lounge car, with floor-to-ceiling windows, is the place to be.
- Whitefish – Libby (Kootenai Country): West of Whitefish, the route runs through dense forest and river canyons toward Libby. Larch and cottonwood deliver strong color here, often peaking late September into early October at lower elevations, sliding later in higher, shaded valleys.
Practicals for the Empire Builder:
- Bookable segments: You don’t have to ride cross-country. Short, scenic legs like Whitefish to East Glacier Park or Whitefish to Libby give you the views in a single afternoon. Use Amtrak’s multi-city tool if you want a stopover.
- Seats and views: Coach fares include access to the Sightseer Lounge; spend time on both sides of the car since the best views alternate as the track curves along rivers and ridges.
- Timing: Aspen and cottonwood often peak late September to early October; western larch typically peaks early to mid-October, depending on elevation and weather. A “safe bet” window for Glacier Country is roughly October 1–15 in most years.
- Stations: Glacier-area stops can be seasonal and timetables change; check Amtrak for current service at West Glacier (Belton), Essex, and East Glacier Park before you plan.
- Layovers: Consider an overnight at the historic Izaak Walton Inn in Essex, a beloved railroad hotel set among larch forest. You can step off the train, hike among golden trees, watch freight and passenger trains tackle the grade, and re-board the next day.
Central Montana’s dinner train: the Charlie Russell Chew Choo
Where the prairies meet island mountain ranges, Central Montana burns with autumn color along river corridors and coulees. The region’s signature excursion is the Charlie Russell Chew Choo out of Lewistown, a dinner train that rolls through ranch country, over high trestles, and through short tunnels on century-old track. When operating, late summer and fall departures are common, with golden cottonwoods lining creeks and wide-open views of the Judith Basin.
What to know:
- Experience: Expect a leisurely 3–4 hour ride with a meal and live Western-flavored entertainment, more about landscapes and atmosphere than top speed.
- Scenery: Broad valley vistas, russet prairie grasses, and ribbons of cottonwood color in the draws make this a different, equally authentic Montana autumn look.
- Schedule: Operations vary year to year due to events and infrastructure; check the official site early, as fall dates can sell out.
Short and sweet history: Alder Gulch Shortline Railroad
For a bite-sized rail-and-fall outing wrapped in Old West charm, head to Virginia City and Nevada City. The Alder Gulch Shortline is a narrow-gauge heritage train that trundles about a mile and a half between these two preserved mining towns. The track follows Alder Creek, where cottonwoods and aspen brighten the gulch.
- Season: Typically late spring through early fall, with occasional special weekends; autumn operations can be limited, so verify dates.
- Pairing: Combine your ride with strolls through boardwalks, museums, and living history sites for a full day of low-key, family-friendly fall nostalgia.
Eastern Montana’s big-sky color by rail
While mountains get the headlines, the Empire Builder’s eastern stretch across the Hi-Line offers its own autumn palette. Between Havre, Malta, Glasgow, and on toward the North Dakota border, the route passes the Milk River and Missouri River drainages. In early October, cottonwoods flare along these waterways, contrasting with golden prairie grasses and endless sky.
- Why go: It’s a quieter, contemplative ride. You’ll see working ranches, grain elevators, and migrating waterfowl on refuges. For photographers, the geometry of the prairie, a lone cottonwood glowing on the horizon, and long trains under big light are the draw.
- Logistics: Book a daytime segment—say, Havre to Glasgow—so you can watch the color rather than rolling through at night.
When to go: a quick color calendar
- Northwest Montana (Whitefish/Glacier/Marias Pass): Aspen and cottonwood late September to early October; western larch often peaks early to mid-October.
- Central Montana (Lewistown/Judith Basin): River-bottom cottonwoods generally late September to early October.
- Eastern Montana (Milk and Missouri river corridors): Early October for cottonwoods; grasses and shrubs carry warm tones into mid-October.
Weather can shift these windows by a week or two. Early cold snaps speed things up; warm, dry falls can delay peak color.
How to plan a car-light fall foliage getaway
- Three-day Glacier Country sampler:
- Day 1: Arrive Whitefish by train or air. Explore downtown, rent a bike along the Whitefish River, and check local reports on larch color.
- Day 2: Board the eastbound Empire Builder late morning for Whitefish to Essex. Settle into the Sightseer Lounge for Middle Fork river views. Overnight at the Izaak Walton Inn; hike local trails under golden larch.
- Day 3: Continue to East Glacier Park for a lodge visit and shoulder-season quiet, or return westbound to Whitefish for dinner and a sunset over Whitefish Lake.
- Central Montana dinner train weekend:
- Base in Lewistown, ride the Charlie Russell Chew Choo on a fall departure, then drive scenic byways the next day to spot cottonwood-lined creeks and historic towns.
Tips for getting the most from your ride
- Book strategically: Fall weekends can be popular. Midweek rides often mean fewer crowds in the Sightseer Lounge.
- Light and lenses: Glare is the enemy. Bring a microfiber cloth and press your lens hood gently to the window. A polarizing filter can help, but avoid scratching glass. Keep your ISO higher to counter motion blur.
- Layers and comfort: Montana mornings can be frosty and afternoons mild, even on the same day. Bring a warm layer for station stops and drafty platforms.
- Seating: On Amtrak, you can move to the Sightseer Lounge for the best views. On short tourist lines, arrive early for preferred seats.
- Accessibility: Amtrak provides accessible seating and restrooms; smaller tourist railroads vary, so inquire in advance if you need accommodations.
- Expectations: Foliage is weather-dependent. Even if you miss “peak,” Montana’s scale—golden meadows, blue rivers, and rugged ridgelines—makes the journey worthwhile.
Respect the place
Montana’s shoulder season is prime time for wildlife activity. If you disembark to hike near Glacier or along river trails, carry bear spray, make noise, and keep your distance from animals. Pack out all trash, stay off the tracks except at designated crossings, and use pullouts for photography near railroad property.
Why Montana by rail in the fall feels special
Trains slow you down just enough to notice the fine-grained textures of the season: mist lifting off the Middle Fork as the first light hits a stand of glowing larch; the quiet drama of cottonwoods marking a river’s course across open prairie; the reassuring clack of steel stitching together mountain and plains. Whether you choose a quick hop over Marias Pass, a dinner train under a rose-gold sky, or an east-of-the-mountains day ride past cottonwood galleries, Montana’s fall foliage by rail delivers an experience that’s both cinematic and intimately grounded in place.
Check schedules early, aim for that late September to mid-October window, and let the rails carry you into autumn’s best show under the big sky.
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